Dog Car Travel Safety: Secure Setups, Sickness & Essentials

Many owners do not realise that, by law in the UK, dogs need to be secure when travelling (that means not giving them cuddles on your lap as you drive, you’d be surprised what I’ve seen : ).

Boot or Back Seat?

My preferred method is having them in the boot with a dog guard separating the boot from the back seat. This is the one I use, as it’s universal and easy to fit:

Alternatively, you can have them in a specific car harness (not a regular harness with an attachment clip) on the back seat.

These Car Harnesses are one of the only crash tested dog car harnesses on the market:

If you have a nice car (my car’s past the point of no return now), you might want to invest in a back seat liner, to save dog hair and mud for future passengers.

Personally, I think it’s much nicer to give them more space in the boot if you can. I make this a home from home for Bear, with his bed, water and chew to keep him entertained whilst I navigate the pot holes of Essex.

I use a calming donut bed or these plastic dog beds, as it has high sides, which helps Bear to feel more secure when travelling. In conjunction with some Non-Slip VetBed for comfort, it means both are easy to wash after muddy walks:

Travel Sickness

Just like humans, dogs can get car sick very easily. Make sure you do not feed a few hours prior to travel and a top tip is to give them a ginger biscuit half an hour prior to travel, as the ginger will help to settle their tummy.

You could also spray some Pet Remedy (dog appeasing pheromones) in the car, which might help calm the nerves and stick some Classic FM on:

When travelling with a dog on board, it’s important to remember you are not Lewis Hamilton and to take those turns slowly. Initially keep journeys short and sweet, that lead to wonderful things like the park (not the vets).

Getting In

If your dog doesn’t like getting into the car, DON’T FORCE THEM. Yes, that might be easier for you short term, but you will find it harder long term to improve the issue.

Avoid car journeys for a few weeks and go back to basics:

• Practice walking round the car at a distance they feel calm
• Feed each meal and/or high value chews in the boot of the car whilst stationary
• Progress to feeding with the boot shut whilst you sit in the back seat
• Progress to feeding with the boot shut and the engine on
• Progress to a two minute journey round the block

For serious cases, consult your vet on prescription drugs that might help.

A common mistake owners make is using food to bribe their dog into the car. You can teach your dog to no longer trust the use of food, as it predicts something they don’t like (getting in the car).

A better (and simple) adjustment is to reward them heavily when they do jump in the car, and not to use the food to get them in.

The jumping in itself might be too much for your dog. For young pups and older dogs in particular, a collapsible ramp can be useful. It’s important it’s sturdy so the dog feels safe (avoid the cheaper ones). This is a great mid range ramp:

Coming out of the car is just as important as going in. As long as your dog isn’t stressed, wait until they are calm before encouraging them out. If you are parked near a busy road, the last thing you want is your dog bolting out the car.

Travel Essentials

I wouldn’t leave home without my Mud Daddy. Unfortunately Bear’s favourite hobby is rolling in anything smelly. I’ve learned the hard way, from journeys home, all windows open, still gagging at the stench emanating from the boot. So now, whether it’s mud, or something else of unknown origin, he gets a good scrub before going in the car:

The Road Refresher is a great bowl to keep in the car (I think it was featured on Dragons Den once). It’s non-spill, so water won’t slosh around your car when driving:

Lastly, these travel water bottles are the best I’ve come across for thirsty pooches to keep in the car for longer adventures or in warmer weather:

Dogs in Hot Cars (UK Summer Safety)

Even on mild UK days, a parked car can heat up quickly. “Windows cracked” is not enough. If you can’t take your dog with you, don’t make the trip.

Hot-weather car travel tips:

• Cool the car first. Run the air con for a few minutes before your dog gets in, especially if the car has been parked in the sun.
• Make sure airflow reaches the boot area. Front-seat air con doesn’t always cool the back or boot effectively.
• Travel early or late. Aim for mornings or evenings and plan direct routes with minimal stops.
• Offer water little and often. The Road Refresher is ideal because it won’t slosh all over your car.
• Bring a travel bottle as back-up. These travel water bottles are brilliant for quick drinks at the boot.
• Support hydration on longer journeys. On hot travel days, Oralade can be useful if your dog is panting more than usual or not drinking their normal amount.
• Pack a cooling towel. A damp microfibre towel can help cool paws and the underside during breaks.
• Keep it calm. In summer, swap high-arousal toys for calm chews and settling. A frozen lick mat can help your dog relax on longer journeys.

If your dog is panting hard, drooling heavily, seems unsteady, or isn’t recovering quickly after a stop, treat it as urgent. Move them to shade, offer small amounts of cool water, use cool damp towels on paws and belly, and contact your vet.

For a full summer safety guide (including safe walking temperatures and heatstroke signs), see Keeping Dogs Cool in Summer.

I hope these tips help, and as always, if you have any questions or things that have worked for you, please do get in touch.

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